Cuba, February-March 2007
Cuba, showing Sentinel's route. The mainland is 600 miles long. There are over 4,000 islands, or "Cayos", in the surrounding reef-fringed shallow sea.
"Welcome to Socialist Cuba". Cuba is a rigid old-style Communist state. But we were heartened by a warm greeting in English on the radio when we arrived at Santiago after a week's voyage. (The picture is actually of the entrance to Cienfuegos).
The officials arrive to inspect the boat. (Well, not quite these ones, parading at the tomb of José Martí). It took 14 people and four hours to search and document Sentinel when we arrived. We were searched on arrival and leaving every port.
Santiago marina was our first introduction to anomolies of Cuban life. There was a restaurant, two bars, shower block, chandlery, shop, 24-hour security, at least 30 staff ... all for four visiting yachts.
This is Santiago harbour from the magnificent Spanish castle at the entrance. The marina can just be made out in the distance, above Lyn's friend's knee. Santiago was 'liberated' by the United States at the start of Cuba's War of Independence in 1898, and the US has maintained a base at nearby Guantánamo Bay ever since.
Santiago is a lively town with much street music. There are some attractive old buildings in the centre but much is crumbling. There are few cars to clog the narrow streets.

A busy day in Revolution Square, Santiago.

Sophia entering Santiago.

Our next stop was at Cienfuegos. A beautiful city viewed from its huge natural harbour, with many fine buildings and parks around the waterfront. This is the former Yacht Club, restored as a social club. There are no local yachts these days, but still an active rowing club.
The central square in Cienfuegos, Parque Martí. Behind their attractive facades, some of the surrounding buildings were crumbling and ruined. The coaches are strictly for tourists visiting from Havana.
This is the local bus. The two mile ride to the centre of Cienfuegos cost locals 2½p, but us 60p. They were not supposed to take tourists, so we had to be dropped off in a side-street near the centre, out of sight of the police.
On passage, we stopped at uninhabited little islands where we could. But the banks are extremely shallow and it was tricky getting in. This is Cayo Rapado on the north-west coast. The sky shows a cold front arriving with bad weather. We holed up here for 3 days, sheltered by the mangroves while a gale raged outside.
Havana is Cuba's only modern city, conspicuously wealthier than the rest of the country. It is changing fast with the influx of tourist money. Much of the old town is in the process of restoration. Ten years ago everyone rode bicycles, now there are many private cars.
Left, a typical street in old Havana. Right, the Capitolio.
Kerbside garage in Havana.
Cojimar, the fishing village where Ernest Hemingway based his novel "The Old Man and the Sea" ... ... and Hemingway's motoryacht "El Pilar" which he kept at Cojimar, but is now at his former home south of Havana.
We met our old friend Barry Tipping from Dover while in Havana, who dragooned us into a week's serious sightseeing. Here we are trying to get him to chill out.
Hemingway Marina in Havana is perhaps the largest marina we have ever visited. There are four enormous canals like the one above and endless facilities. Visiting yachts only filled a fraction of the capacity. The marina shop was by far the best-stocked supermarket we found in Cuba, though it had very few customers.
The exit from Hemingway Marina is as hairy as any harbour we have visited, a tiny gap in the shallow reef on which the waves break continuously. This picture was taken in a crosswind force 5 as we prepared to leave for Key West.

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