Lyn's Log, 16th October 2005
Atlantic, Madeira

Funchal, Madeira.
N32º45', W16º55'
3,340 miles.

From Porto Santo it was 40 miles to Madeira, where we arrived on 11th October. It is another volcanic island, with much higher peaks than Porto Santo that appear to be permanently cloud-covered. There are many sheer cliffs around the coast, one being the highest in Europe. Bananas are grown on the lower slopes, vineyards higher up, and forests towards the summits.

These forests are largely of eucalyptus trees that have been planted to replace the indiginous forests which were long since cut down, but there are still many other trees. We saw wonderful sweet-chestnut trees covered in pom-pom like chestnuts. They tasted good too! One day we took a Land-Rover trip up into the mountains, alongside deep ravines and off road through the eucalyptus forests where wild amaryllis grows.

We looked over the "Nun’s Valley", though swirling mist rather obscured this famous view. Houses were perched on the edges of the ravines with terraces of farmland joined by narrow paths, copious steps, and a few tracks. The Madeiran red grapes were grown like a canopy a few feet above the ground, creating their own eco-system, but the white grapes were in rows as in France. In a short distance we saw cherry trees, apple trees, cabbages, sweetcorn and grapes, in close proximity, each variety occupying a quite small area. There were a few crops of sugar cane here and there. As the bananas and sugar cane are now less in demand, some of this farmland has been given over to tourism and covered in new hotels and apartments, although we have heard that the number of tourists allowed on the island is capped. The Land-Rover trip was a good way to see this stunning scenery. Alternatively, there are many walking routes laid out through the hills. Some of these follow the old irrigation canals, called ‘levadas’, which still collect the spring water and lead it to the water treatment plants. There is no desalination plant on Madeira as there is enough fresh hill water.

We also took a cable car from Funchal, way up over another ravine, to the Monte Palace and tropical gardens. Here paths criss-cross down part of the ravine through themed gardens with ponds and waterfalls, with the addition of picture-tile murals, depicting the history of Portugal, and various objects of art to enjoy along the way. From here one could return down the steep hill to Funchal in the traditional way in a wicker sleigh, steered down by two men at the back. Unfortunately, with the arrival of a cruise ship, there was too long a queue for the sleighs, so we returned on the cable car.

Sunday was still rather wet in the morning and the winds were still southerly, so we took the cable car again only this time walked down. The walk took us along narrow tracks and steps through the forest on the edge of the ravine. Much of the time we were alongside a sheer drop. Part way, we came to a very pretty spot with a waterfall. Andrew said the water tasted very good and was almost tempted to take a swim in the pool at the foot of the waterfall, even though it looked very brown. After a while we met up with a levada which we then followed until it brought us back down into the town. Following the levada was the scariest part of the walk as it was less than a meter wide with the channel for the water in the middle covered by over by flat stones, and at times went over stone viaducts with nothing to hold on to and a long drop underneath. At other times the levada was pinned onto a rock face, with a sheer mountainous drop along its edge. It took us two and a half hours to make the descent back to Funchal town centre with the last bit down an incredibly steep road. We enjoyed it but it was good to be back on flat ground.

While making use of the free wifi in the marina, we took the opportunity to download the "Skype" software which will enable us to make phone calls home via the internet for around a penny a minute.