Lyn's Log, 24th January 2007
Puerto Rico to Cuba

Santiago, Cuba.
N19º59', W75º53'
12,589 miles.

The winds picked up and we had a comfortable sail over five knots for two days and a night, anchoring behind the small island of Catalina off the south east of the Dominican Republic, as it got dark. In the bay we saw two catamarans and something with a light flashing which we anchored near. We awoke in the morning to find a cruise liner anchoring right up against us. Then a pirogue motored away from the shore and took the lines from the stern of the liner to the dolphin, the thing that had had the light flashing. All along the beach were rows of sun beds. This was obviously the ‘desert island’ stop for the hundreds of passengers to spend a day ‘alone’. The catamarans left and we soon followed.

We decided to sail the 35 miles to Andreas, Boca Chica. It was not mentioned as a port of entry but Chris had told us of how the officials come to the marina and how friendly it was. As we made our way through the shallows we were met and guided in to a marina space, greeted in reasonable English and had several official guys look over the yacht and our paperwork soon afterwards. We were repeatedly told of the marina’s facilities and not to hesitate to ask for anything we needed. Unfortunately the laundry facilities were not working this week, but there was free wifi! The marina was in a beautiful setting behind a small island and long reef.

This part of the Dominican Republic was a popular holiday destination, near an airport, a highway along the coast, and with many hotels facing the beautiful beaches protected behind reefs. We found the small roads leading to town were roughly made with broken edges, cracks and holes, and crumbling buildings here and there. The town looked interesting but poor. By contrast, the hotels were plush with creatively designed entrances and gardens, and plenty of security guards. There were many restaurants with wooden piers over the shallow water where the guests could watch the fish as they ate. These had first class décor and service, reasonable food, and were as expensive as in the Virgin Islands. The small restaurants in town would have been much cheaper.

Everyone was very friendly and helpful, including the American partner/owner of the marina who arrived by yacht with his family the same day as us. Many of the staff spoke some English. The marina has existed beside the yacht club’s moorings, for a couple of years and is still being built up. It will be very impressive. One of the men who showed us the way into our dock and summoned the authorities, was also asked by the owners to drive us to the Immigration office in town to save getting a taxi. (We had been seriously overcharged by a taxi driver the previous night). After tipping this man, he soon arrived with some good quality bananas and a pineapple for us. We must have over tipped him!

On the morning of 18th January, the authorities arrived a little after the allotted time, gave us a final check over and gave us our ‘despatchio’. They then waited until we left with everyone waving goodbye.

The trip to Cuba began well with wind and current with us we sailed to the southernmost point of the island. Then as we went westwards along the coast of Haiti, we had an adverse current all the way, even though we were up to 30 miles off the coast. The seas were horrible with waves heaped up to twelve feet with breaking crests that often broke over our cabin or slammed into the side of the yacht. At night the white crests would flash with phosphorescence. Looking aft, the stern just rose gently over most of the waves, but then a small group would push the stern sideways rolling the boat so that the next one could wash over the decks, and the sails would flap noisily until the self steering could correct the yacht’s course.

Eventually we reached the western tip of Haiti and saw the lights of more ships than we had seen in one place since leaving the straits of Dover. They soon dispersed in various directions and the wind dropped away to nothing. We motored for a while till the wind picked up again around dawn and by ten we were trying to raise Santiago on the radio. When we reached just a mile off the entrance to the harbour (pic above) I received the a voice in English welcoming us to Cuba, and by eleven on 24th January we were tied up to a concrete pontoon with the harbour master organizing our safe arrival and the procession of visiting officials, acting as interpreter.