Lyn's Log, 10th September 2007
Mackinac Island
We arrived at Drummond Island, USA, on 1st September and stayed for a day. Al and Jane, who had arrived in their yacht just ahead of us, were renting a car for the afternoon to see the island, and offered to take us along. The island was mainly wooded with roads petering out into tracks. There were camping grounds for the ‘get away from it all’ holidaymakers. There were also some private homes built amongst the trees with views and access over the water. What a restful, scenic place to have a holiday home! Somewhat unsure of exactly where he was going, Al found the home of an old friend and found her in residence, so we saw at first hand how attractive these places are with the land drifting from the trees to sandy scrub and rocks in the water’s shallows. I thought this island was the nearest thing to ‘outback’ I had seen, but Andrew said I hadn’t begun to see ‘outback’ until I had been a good deal further north in Canada.
Around this area where there are plenty of trees and rocks, the people have a special way to build a harbour wall or pontoon. First drive in two rows of wooden pilings and weave thin trunks or branches along them forming two wooden walls. Fill the space with rocks and place a boardwalk across the top.
The next day the wind was still against us so we decided on a modest target, Government Bay, about 25 miles to the west. After logging 50 miles of tacking and still 6 miles from our destination, we motored across the rest of the wind swept Lake Huron and at last into the peaceful anchorage. In the morning it was grey and wet and we motored 15 miles on to Mackinac Island, arriving in a thunderstorm with torrential rain. We agreed to stay an extra day to see the island’s charms in the sunshine.
The island has been a popular holiday resort for 150 years. In 1903 motor cars were banned, and so the main source of transport today is horse drawn carriages. It is even possible to rent a "Surrey with a Fringe on Top", for self-drive. In the little village of shiplap houses we felt transported back a hundred years. Dominating the bluff overlooking the harbour, was Fort Mackinac. It was built by the British in the US War of Independence, and recaptured again in the war of 1812, being returned to the US both times by treaty. After it was decomissioned in 1895 the island became a national park, the second in the USA. It was fascinating to wander around the old barracks, restored as they would have looked in the 1860's. The two ‘soldiers’ who were manning the fort worked hard firing cannon and rifles, blowing bugles and playing fife and drum.
Later that day we witnessed some of the problems with equine transport. Two horses were slowly pulling a carriage laden with tourists up a hill, when one slipped and its hind legs collapsed before it regained its feet. The driver acted quickly to ensure the carriage was not upset. Then, while sitting in a café, I saw two horses break free from a carriage at the same point on the hill. The horses, still joined together, galloped across the grassy park and then along the road towards us, before turning up a short drive and being caught. I saw the carriage turn a little on the hill but do not know if anyone was hurt.
Beyond Mackinac Island lies the famous suspension bridge over the Mackinac Straits, and Lake Michigan. The following day’s weather forecast looked good as long as we reached a sheltered harbour before nightfall, when the winds were forecast to increase to gale force. We motor sailed out, just holding the mainsail hard on the wind, until we were through the bridge. The wind blew harder and the choppy seas kept stopping Sentinel dead, so that we did not think we would make our destination before nightfall. We wimped out and retreated to St Ignace marina, situated off the northern end of the bridge, still in Lake Huron. At least it was a good cheap marina with the benefits of wifi and a laundry. Lake Michigan would have to wait another day.