Lyn's Log, 12th March 2009
Ensenada to Magdalena Bay
Magdalena Bay
N24º38', W112º08'
20,530 miles.
The alarm clock woke us as dawn approached in the remote San Benito Isles on 7th March. The wind was blowing quite strongly and it looked cold and grey outside. After another half an hour in the warmth and comfort it got lighter and we got up to a hot cup of tea. Before long we were pulled up the anchor and left the islands behind with the wind in the genoa and the sun poking out between the clouds. It was a good sail, arriving at our destination in Turtle Bay as darkness fell, in time to anchor and meet up with three other boats that had left Ensenada just before us.
Now over half way down the coast of Mexico's Baja California, we could not believe how chilly it was. It was cloudy all through Sunday and we even felt the odd spot of rain. The landscape was pure desert - they don't do rain! We cleaned a lot of dirt off ourselves, the decks and some clothes, and that evening went out to the only restaurant with eight other yachties to celebrate Jesse’s birthday. It was great time hearing other people’s stories and aspirations, especially as the ages and experiences varied a great deal.
The village at Turtle Bay was a dusty place reminiscent of the small fishing villages in Brazil or the Cape Verde Islands. It was built on a flattish piece of land on the rim of a circular bay at the end of a track. There was the restaurant, a bar, a food store and - we were told - an Internet café. They seemed to live mostly on the passing trade of yachts, in one of the very few fully sheltered anchorages on this coast. Highlight of their year must be the "Baja Haha" rally of 150 or so yachts that descends on them in November.
Having been pleased to be able to pick up some bread and milk from the village store on Sunday evening, we had no reason to return to the village and thought it best to move on on Monday. The sun shone on the coast and the rocky landscape slipped by. Some of the rocks were beautifully coloured reds, greens, blues and yellows; rather like a larger version of the ‘Artists Palette’ we had seen in Death Valley. We ducked into a rolly anchorage for the night and then spent the next two at sea, arriving at our next stop, Magdalena Bay, at dawn (pic above).