Salvador! On the rock where the lighthouse now stands, Américo Vespúcio landed in 1501 and claimed Brazil for the Portuguese. Part of the fort underneath was the first building in Brazil. Salvador itself was founded in 1549, the capital of Brazil for 200 years.

The city has a bloody history. This photo is taken from the site where the Jesuit mission once stood, from which the Portuguese set out to convert, conquer or exterminate the inhabitants of half a continent. Later, it was the centre of the slave trade. The Mercado Modelo below was once the slave market. Beyond is the Centro Nautico de Bahia, with Sentinel in the marina.

Our first impressions are of colour and noise. This city of 2 million people loves its music: candomblé drums punch out the beat until the early hours, more African than Latin-American. Even this fountain, in the historic "Pelhorinho" district, dances to music.

We had a number of adventures during the month we stayed in Salvador ...

The high point of all this energy is Carnaval, a fiesta throughout Latin America held at the end of February. Salvador’s Carnaval is agreed to be second only to the one in Rio de Janeiro – some say better.

It is a heady, cacophonous street-party that lasts from early afternoon through to dawn the next day, every night for a week. We watched the growing anticipation as street decorations, stages and viewing areas were erected around the town. Shops and public buildings along the routes boarded up their fronts. Then it erupts: the entire centre of the city is taken over, paralysing traffic and bringing all normal business to a close.

2½ million people pack onto the streets. They are entertained by the ‘Blocos’ that crawl around – huge groups of people in matching outfits surrounding a 40 ton truck packed with sound equipment, on top of which is a pop band turning out music so loud it is literally possible to feel the buildings shake. The 80 or so trucks struggle to maintain progress through the crowds around streets that are far too narrow for them.

The "Sons of Gandhi" Bloco truck.

As well there are bands on foot, on stages, people in fancy dress, caipoeira dancers, firecrackers. Everyone is dancing, or just jerking up and down as they are swept along by the frighteningly dense crowds. The music is unfamiliar with a strong African rhythm, but the crowds know it and roar out the choruses when popular numbers are played.

Strutting their stuff ...

Carnaval gives a poor people a week of music, dancing, cheap beer and the chance to dress up, while costing almost nothing. Even public transport is free. But it is less of a spectacle than Rio, or the London Carnival, and there is no grand finale. In truth, by the end of the week the Blocos, like these "Mothers of Bahia", were looking distinctly weary.