About a day after we left Samoa, around 7am local time on 29th September 2009, there was a giant underwater earthquake, variously reported as between 7.9 and 8.3 on the Richter scale, to the south-west of Samoa. The result was a tsunami of 4.5m which swept into Samoa with devastating consequences. Because nearly all the settlements are around the coast, connected by a coastal road, there was much flooding and destruction, including several of the places we had visited just days before. Around 170 people were killed.

Yachts in harbours around the islands were badly hit. By an hour after the earthquake, the radio nets were alive with reports, but it was hard to make sense of the chaotic situation. There was some damage in Apia, but by and large the yachts in the small marina escaped with no more than a knocking around. It was however a different story in Pago Pago, which faces south, directly in the path of the tsunami.

The resort of Lalumanu on the south-east corner of Upolu, where this picture was taken a few days earlier, was one of the hardest hit places with every building destroyed. Thirteen NZ school-children and their teachers who were kayaking had a lucky escape on the rock in the background, from where they were rescued after being marooned overnight.

We have picked up something of the story from reports of people who were there, in particular Wayne on Learnativity. Yachties were aware and commented on the earthquake, but none had any inkling of what would happen twenty minutes later. The first to notice were those tied to the concrete dock, when the water level abruptly started to fall. Lines went taut, people tried to cast off, and then yachts hit the bottom and lay over as the level fell 4m. There was a short pause, then the water poured back into the harbour even faster than it had left, until it covered the dock by up to 2m. Yachtsmen aboard struggled to keep their boats powering into the flood, unoccupied boats were simply tossed loose. The situation was most desperate for those left on the dock itself, who clung to two lamp-posts as the water swept them off their feet.

The backwash from this flood was the strongest of all, as the water sucked out again. By now the loose boats, cars, oil and debris added to the hazards for those trying to control their yachts in the habour. Wayne took the picture (left) of one that was dumped on top of the dock. At least this outsurge gave a chance for those on the dock to escape. Sadly, American yachtsman Danny Olszewski from Mainly, had been washed off and did not make it. We had become friendly with Danny and Joan when we sailed with them in the Tuamotus, and his loss was a great shock. The picture below shows Mainly in happier times.

The surges continued for several hours, getting weaker each time. Afternoon was a time of recovery from the harrowing experience, clearup as best people were able, and concerns about looting from boats.

How did this affect Sentinel, which was just 80 miles from the epicenter, possibly closer than any other yacht? Hardly at all, as a matter of fact. Paradoxically, well out to sea is the best place to face a tsunami. Andrew noticed some erratic agitation on the surface of the water at the time of the earthquake, but in a brisk F5 wind the seas were quite rough anyway. The tsunami itself swept under us unnoticed. The owner of another yacht nearby which was motor-sailing had wondered whether the vibration was being caused by engine damage. We both had been more concerned by an earlier GPS outage of about 10 minutes, which had had us thinking of digging out the sextant.

Mainly (inset Danny)