Tonga consists of a scattered group of tiny islands stretching over 400 miles from north to south across the south Pacific, the largest being less than 20 miles long. It is an independent kingdom of about 100,000 people still speaking a Polynesian dialect and actively maintaining their traditions.

Vava'u, 100 miles north of Tonga's capital Nuku'Alofa, is many people's dream of what South Sea islands should be like. It is an island group about 15 miles diameter surrounded by coral reef. At the northern

Numbers show the anchorages listed below.

end are cliffs 200m high plunging straight into the surf, while the south tails off into tiny islets of coconut palms rising out of azure seas. This is one of the world's great cruising locations. There are some 40 recognised anchorages all within a short sail of one another, featuring dramatic scenery, remote islands and beaches to oneself, and superb snorkeling on the coral reefs.

These are some of the anchorages which we visited.

1. Neiafu

The main town of about 7,000 people. Overlooking the waterfront of the well-sheltered harbour are many beach bars, restaurants, and small businesses servicing yachts on the moorings below. Behind, the town itself is scruffy but contains basic shops. It is the only place in the islands with mains power. Even a few street-lights, some of which work.

2. Kenutu Island

A couple of hundred meters from where we are anchored, huge ocean rollers break in explosions of surf on the outside of the reef. Somehow the delicate coral reduces this turmoil to gentle ripples in the sandy anchorage. At low tide we snorkle in rock pools and watch the multi-coloured fish. The night is spectacularly starry as we are lulled to sleep by the ocean’s roar.

3. Lape Island

The sixteen residents of this little island, four of whom are children, put on a feast with a whole spit-roast suckling pig for a few visiting yachties, in order to raise money to repair their wharf. Without electricity it was held at full moon to provide light.

The next morning we were invited back to join them in their church just a few metres from the beach. There was wonderful singing in harmony, and part of the sermon, very short, was given in English for our benefit. Afterwards we looked around the tiny village. It was a privilege to be given such an insight into these peoples’ lives.

Just to the west of Lape we snorkled over the most beautiful coral garden we have seen anywhere in the Pacific, with clouds of multicoloured fish.

4. Ano Beach

A popular anchorage featuring a floating art shop. We visited with Gisela, a holiday-maker from Australia, who sailed with us for a couple of days. That evening there was music and a dancing display on the beach by local villagers.

Women's dancing in Tonga is now little more than elaborate hand movements, a pale shadow

of the spirited and provocative belly dancing elsewhere in Polynesia. We were amused though watching children in the shadows copying the movements (above right).

This was followed by a traditional Tongan feast – no plates or eating implements, just help yourself from the pile of food on the banana leaves. The messier dishes, such as marinaded corned beef and papaya, were served in leaf wraps - a surprise to open each one.

Thanks to Gisela Stieglitz for the two photos here.

5. Nuku Island

We had this tiny uninhabited island to ourselves, with Gisela. It is picture-perfect, featuring a beach of deep sand with palm trees behind and some ruins among the trees. Coral heads protruding through the sandy anchorage make for interesting snorkling.

A mile or so to the north is Swallow Cave in which we rowed the dinghy. A narrow entrance (right) gives way to a large limestone cavern, beautifully coloured rocks with stalactites. Beneath, the blue water is impenetrably deep.

Navigation notes.

Charts of Vava’u, NZ 8234 or USA DMA 83555, are based on a British Admiralty survey of 1898 so require caution (it is about ¼ mile out from WGS84). Moorings (the charterers) in Neiafu can provide a version showing all the anchorages and the best passages through some of the trickier shallows.

For a cruising guide we used Warwick Clay “South Pacific Anchorages” (Imray) which has descriptions of the principal anchorages, including those listed above. More detailed is Kenneth Hallewell "Ken's Comprehensive Cruising Guide for the United Kingdom of Tonga".

For those wishing to bare-boat charter, Sunsail and Moorings are based in Neiafu. Diving and (in season) whale-watching are also major activities here.