The Rincon waterfall is the highest in Trinidad, deep in the rainforest of the Northern Range, beneath the mountain peak of El Tucuche. It would take a strenuous jungle hike to reach from the nearest road, and we would need an experienced guide. In October 2006 a group of 10 keen yachties from Chaguramas organised a minibus with tour operator Jesse James, who also wanted to visit the waterfall. Bleary eyed, we left at quarter past six for a two hour drive into the hills and along a trail to the remote hamlet of Rincon. We left the van at a smallholding and met our guide, Lawrence, better known as ‘Snake’. Snake breeds pythons, and had one curled up on the back seat of his car.

At first we followed farm tracks through overgrown plantations of coffee and cocoa. Then we reached the jungle proper, and the track narrowed to single file as we climbed up the hillside. It had evidently not been used for some time, almost obliterated by vegetation and blocked with fallen trees, we would have been quickly lost without our guide to hack a way through with his machete. Around ten o’clock we reached a deep mountain pool, where we donned our costumes for a swim.

Refreshed, we continued onward and upward, when Snake suddenly shouted ‘freeze!’ He had spotted a deadly fer-de-lance snake in our path. Lyn and Andrew had actually walked right by it – we were thankful for the protection of our stout hiking boots. Some of the others were wearing sandals, really quite unsuitable for this terrain. The snake was about three feet long, well camouflaged in the leaves. To our amazement, Snake trapped it with the side of his machete, picked it up behind its head and bled its venom onto the blade, which he then licked off! We made sure he threw it well clear before we carried on.

We reached the impressive 300 foot high Rincon waterfall just before noon. The final stretch was a scramble downhill over rocks and tree roots with the aid of a rope. Another deep pool beneath the fall and we were soon all in the water again. Never has there been a better setting for a swim, lying on one’s back in the cool water and sunshine looking at the long waterfall cascading down, while flying around were huge iridescent blue butterflies and hummingbirds.

Around half past one we began our return. We retraced our way up the rope, and then took a more direct but steeper route downhill back. Our guide led the way chanting and encouraging us on, while Jesse at the rear, responded. Everyone was laughing and in high spirits, but we were starting to feel our legs in the afternoon heat. It was a relief to arrive at a river crossing where we could sit in the water and cool off.

Then we were back at the van, and changed into dry clothes when the farmer offered us delicious sweet coconut water from freshly cut coconuts. Jesse realised he had left the van lights on and everyone had to use the last of their strength to get him bump started! As a reward, on the way back he treated us to a Shark ‘n Bake. This is a popular delicacy sold by roadside vendors throughout Trinidad. The bake is a dough patty made with a little baking powder, deep-fried, then sliced and a piece of battered shark topped with salad and spicy sauce is wedged inside.

We arrived back at our yachts at around six in the evening, exhausted but well content. It had been a good day.

Jungle flowers.

Andrew tries on a python for size.

Rincon waterfall.

Lyn on the jungle trail.